Thursday, February 12, 2009

What a dollar can buy

After Tuesday's rainfest, Wednesday delivered a picture-perfect morning. The birds were singing, the sun was softly glowing, a breeze was gently blowing. You get the idea.

The day turned out to be fiscally fine, too. While not everything in Buenos Aires comes with a rock-bottom price tag, we did very well for ourselves on this glorious day, starting with breakfast at Ocio, the cute cafe around the corner from our apartment:
  • Cafe con leche (a latte, in Seattle vernacular) with three medialunas (small croissants), the most traditional of Buenos Aires breakfasts: 10 pesos ($2.90 US).
  • Cafe con leche with tostadas (aka three thin slices of toasted rustic bread) served with tiny ramekins of soft, spreadable cheese and strawberry jam and a small glass of freshly squeezed orange juice: 12 pesos ($3.48 US).
Priceless extras: whenever you order a cafe at a cafe, it comes to you with a small glass of mineral water and a tiny plate of a few tiny cookies. Lovely anytime, but especially when you need a little between-meal pick-me-up.

We walked off breakfast by hoofing it a few miles to the la Chacarita neighborhood, primarily to check out a weekly farmer's market we had heard about. Located in a small, brightly painted building next to a rail yard, it offered up a bounty of Argentine grown, Argentine-produced items. Fresh local produce, baked goods, olive oil, wine, soap, dried fruits, nuts, etc. We walked away 53 pesos ($16.37 US) poorer, but so much the richer, because those few dollars bought us:
  • One bottle of Malbec wine from Argentina's Mendoza region.
  • Two adorable fruit tarts with lattice-top crusts.
  • Five tomatoes.
  • Small bag of dried whole peaches (which are delicious beyond compare).
  • Small bag of dried pears.
  • Small bag of mixed dried fruit (figs, grapes, etc.).
  • Small bag of the most almondy almonds we've ever tasted in our lives.
We dropped off a bag of dirty clothes one of the several laundries in our neighborhood and picked them up clean a few hours later for 12 pesos, or $3.48. A stop at one of the several neighborhood supermercados got us two 2-liter bottles of water, a large bottle of Quilmes Stout and toilet paper (since our apartment came with less than two rolls!) for $3.70.

We learned a hard lesson when we visited the Alto Palermo mall (We're officially sick of malls,  in any hemisphere) and went to a touristy, so-so, overpriced restaurant. Ugh. Never again...we have learned our lesson (Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me!).

Our luck turned for the better after that, ending on a sweet note when we stopped at the original outpost of Persicco for the best ice cream ever in this world or any other. We shared a small (ha!) cup of half tiramisu and half mousse de chocolate. Yum! Since there is a newer branch near our apartment, we will be going back often, I'm sure.

2 comments:

caseydog said...

Was I right about Persicco or what? That stuff is outstanding!

Unknown said...

I wonder ..... what the resturantuers would do if you brought your own flatware? Just pull them outta your pocket, and chow-down!